PHILMONT EXPEDITION 714A2 2005 Trek 11
                              

                                                                                                                      PHILMONT JOURNAL
                                                                                                                            by Steve Eubanks
 

Day 0, July 13, Wednesday

Ponil Campground

Couldn’t get to sleep the night before we left home. Was in bed by 9:30, but read until
midnight. Was awake by 4 am, even though alarm was set for 4:20. Long day driving,
breakfast at Jolly Truck Stop and lunch in Amarillo. Afternoon rains spread off the
mountains as we got close to Philmont. Set up camp and had hamburgers for supper last night.

Awoke several times last night to get more comfortable on very rough ground. It got light early; I finally got up about 6:40. Went to Heck’s in Cimarron for breakfast. One
waitress, one cook, one menu choice, skimpy servings, high price. Got out to Philmont
about 9:30, went to Seton Museum, then on to Villa Philmonte after a stop at trading
post. Tour meant a lot more now that I know more about Waite Phillips and family.
Afterwards went to advisors lounge, then to trading post for a snack lunch. I noticed
many familiar sights from my staff days in 1975-76, plus a number of changes. The
cabins where we lived are both moved, now apparently used for storage. Looking around brought back many memories of those never-to-be-forgotten summers. The views of Tooth Ridge and Urraca Mesa are still breathtaking, reminds me of waking up and seeing them everyday.

Day 1, July 14, Thursday

Base Camp

Check-in was fast! We arrived about 8:20 at Tent City and were assigned rangers. Ours
is Adriane Collins, a 24-year-old nursing student from Portland, Oregon. She has
backpacking but not Scouting experience, but is mature and calm. After dropping stuff in our tents, we went to camping check-in and Logistics (used to be Control). She reviewed first aid with our boys while Matt and A.J., with Danny, Steve and Bob, got all the paperwork done. With medical check-in complete, we got our equipment (bear bags only) and four days of food, then back to the tents for shake-down before lunch. Adriane trusted us, asked us to show her only 2-3 of the most critical items. We had a marginal lunch at the dining hall (where I did the New Mexico Story one night for the Troop 806 crew in 1976).

After lunch, we broke down the food to take on the trail, but put it in bear bags to keep in the trailer until we’re ready to go. Austin and I headed to the Trading Post, where we got our maps, Austin’s bull, and some mosquito spray. I got bit all over last night, and we are told that mosquitoes are a big problem where we are headed. Afterwards I re-packed a few things, then had a nice shower, although it’s awfully hot out here today. This evening will be busy with supper, chapel and opening campfire. I’m going to go look for the other advisors and hang out some place cool….

We had supper at 5:30, advisors meeting immediately after, then chapel services at 7
pm and New Mexico Story at “8:30.” The director of program appeared to be a lot more
dynamic than my old boss. As I look back, Philmont was in a “caretaker” mode when I
worked here in the 1970s, without dedicated emphasis for continual improvement. After advisors meeting, chapel service was quite well done. There were several songs,
responsive reading and Scripture. Text was the Woman at the Well, with sermon
emphasis on living water vs. daily water. Campfire took a long time to get started, then a long walk to get out to the site. Multimedia, with several sketches, many staff involved, better and shorter than when I did it. Everyone thought it was boring, but the late start and long walk are what make it so bad. We didn’t get back until after 9:30, then to bed after 10 pm.

Day 2, July 15, Friday

Zastrow Turnaround to Rayado River Camp

Up at 5:30 this morning, food all loaded in packs by 6:05, then to breakfast, clean the
tents, and to Welcome Center by 7:20. We were picked up by 7:50, were at Zastrow
Turnaround by 8:20, then a short talk by Adriane while we “cameled up.” Then it was a
short hike up Rayado Canyon via Zastrow to Rayado River Camp. The river is beautiful,
constantly gurgling, lots of Ponderosa pines and fresh air.

After camp set-up and hanging bear bags, Tom and I went with boys to Zastrow, where
they did orienteering. I toured Gilwell Hall, home for Walking Wood Badge until 2000. I
actually got to blow a kudu horn. I showed Zastrow staff my old Philmont map, first one they’ve ever seen showing where Line Camp was. After we came back, the boys went wading. Cool water, nice camp. We had a scare when the purification tablets (Micro-Pur) were misplaced, but Doc told us he saw them by the river where the bottles were refilled. The plan is to eat early, then go to Abreu for coffee and Cantina at 7 pm. It started clouding up about 4 pm, looks like we may get wet. I sprained my back lifting my pack, so I will work to protect it over the next several days….

We got to eat and clean up before the rain hit, but when it hit, it came down hard, with
small hail up to the size of peas. We all sat under the dining fly, kids playing cards, until
the water started flowing through the fly—we had put it up in the ravine draining the
campsite! We got out, stood out in the rain in our rain gear, saw the river up, did some
minor drainage improvements where the pine needles blocked up and water ponded by the tents (but tents stayed dry inside). It stopped raining, but stayed cloudy all evening, nothing was going to dry out. As Austin said, “I never knew so much stuff could happen in one day.”

Day 3, July 16, Saturday

Rayado River Camp to Carson Meadows Camp.

My Dockers were wet from the rain, at least above the gaiters, so I had to sleep with
them in the sleeping bag last night. Slept well, my back felt better for a while, then hurt
again during the early morning hours. We got up at 5:15, our determined wake-up time. Got loaded up, put my back brace on, and took some Ibuprofen, feel much better. Even with so much wet, we got loaded and out of camp by 6:20. We went through Abreu, up the river, across it on a long rickety bridge, then a hard uphill to Carson Meadows. We stopped for breakfast about 7:30, headed to the staff cabin about 8:00. Great view of the meadow, clear shot across Stone Wall Pass to the Tooth of Time. After going back down the meadow, we set up camp, then relaxed the rest of the morning. The other crew arrived and have been visiting. Nice lunch, going to head up to the cabin….

During the afternoon, I played the lost advisor for the PhilSAR for the boys. Visiting staff picked up the clues by the road as trash, so I started yelling about 2:30 to lead the boys toward me. After supper (ramen noodles, not as good as yesterday’s rice and beans), it started to sprinkle, so I headed up to the staff cabin at 6:00 for advisors coffee at 7:00. Ended up visiting with Philmont’s chief electrician, who staffed from 1969 to 1977, then hired in permanent. He maintains radio transmitters and relays, as well as well pumps and chlorine injectors, with just one helper. His daughter is on staff at Carson Meadows; he and his wife were returning her cat.

Day 4, July 17, Sunday

Carson Meadows Camp to Fish Camp

It did not rain last night, and I headed to bed about 9 pm. A.J.’s alarm went off an hour
early and I was awake anyway at 4 am. I got up with him when he brought back the bear bags, then he got up the crew just before 5. It was nice, cool but not chilled, and we got out of camp at 5:55. Nice hike, uphill right off the bat to 8200 feet, then fairly level, generally uphill. Great views up and down and across the canyon, especially at the rocky outcrop where we had breakfast. Trail did just seem to keep going, switchbacks over rocky outcrops, ended up being 6.4 miles, not 5.6 miles. Arrived at Fish Camp about 11 am, then toured the Lodge at 11:30. Set up the fly and had lunch, then the rain started, with thunder and lightning. I joined the boys late for fly tying, tied a couple myself. Austin bought a fishing license and went fly-fishing. Richard K. in the other crew caught 2 small trout, but no one else did.

Late to set up tents and eat dinner. More weather is coming in. I will probably go to
advisors coffee then come back early for bed. Today’s hike was hard. I have a small hot
spot on my left heel, I had to take my back support belt off (hip belt kept slipping), and
my legs started to ache from the stress. Probably will sleep well tonight.

Day 5, Monday, July 18

Fish Camp to Apache Springs Camp

What a wonderful day! Had a good visit last night at advisor’s coffee, even had a small
cup of (caffeinated) coffee with cinnamon. Went back to camp for Thorns and Roses and for Austin’s devotion, then to bed just about 9. It was cold getting up this morning. Inside of tent was wet and fly was soaked from condensation. Hit the trail at 6:05, went up Agua Fria Creek for about 1½ miles, crossed it several times on logs. Breakfast at 7:05; it was plenty warm by then. We hiked up a steep uphill toward Apache Springs. Got up to the top just after 8 and met the Apache Springs conservationists bringing crews back to build a new trail. We joined them, working on rough cutting the trail, primarily removing large rocks and taking down one tree. We worked until 11 am, came back up the trail, then had lunch where we dropped our packs. After eating, we had a quick jog into camp, ½ to ¾ mile, to check in before staff went to lunch at 12. Beautiful camp, looks a lot like Beaubien—same elevation, large open meadow, cattle grazing—absolutely beautiful. We’re doing program tomorrow, so all afternoon was resting. I walked around to take some pictures of the scenery. Looking forward to the layover.

Day 6, Tuesday, July 19

Layover at Apache Springs Camp

Another beautiful day! Can’t believe the trek is half over. The hardest part still lies ahead--48 hours from now we will be atop Mt. Phillips. Unfortunately Paul L. will not be able to make it and will be picked up a Phillips Junction. It’s disappointing—I know how hard he has worked to get back in shape.

After supper last night (stir fry beef, blandest yet, not near as good as the stroganoff we had at Fish Camp), it started to rain. I headed over to advisor’s coffee at 7 pm, had
some hot chocolate and visited a while with staff. This afternoon I met a Mr. Imhoff on
staff here, son of a guy I knew when I worked here. After the coffee, I came back, went
to bed probably about 8:30, but did not sleep too well—there appears to be a high spot
near my hip. I will have to re-position myself to find a better spot to sleep tonight. I woke up to stay after 7:30, got out at 8. After breakfast, I washed my old socks and my sleep shorts (new pants today due to a rip, although I think that my shirt may make the 10-day club with me). Spent the rest of the morning relaxing, played some Sergeant Major.

After lunch, we did 3-D archery, shooting at Styrofoam animal targets. I scored 20
points, o.k., but a lot of fun when we set up A.J.’s shirt on a target and shot it full of
holes. Then we headed over to the sweat lodges, where we climbed in a canvas-covered shelter, sprinkled water into a pot of hot rocks pulled out of the fire, and sweated in there for about 25 minutes. Hot, dripping with sweat, then poured a pot of cold water over our heads. Felt as clean as a shower. Came back to camp, played some cards before supper (mac and cheese, with dark chocolate cheesecake!!), then got everything ready to hit the trail tomorrow. May go to advisor’s coffee, then hit the sunset hike at 7:30 before bed.

Day 7, Wednesday, July 20

Apache Springs Camp to Wild Horse Camp

What an incredible day! I started to head to advisor’s coffee last night when Bob, Tom
and Paul came back with word that a “two-strike” bear had passed Fish Camp earlier
that day. When a bear gets into a crew’s gear, he is captured, tagged on one ear, and
relocated some distance away. If he causes trouble again, he is tagged on the second
ear (“two strike”) and relocated again. Trouble again, and the bear is captured and killed. Anyway, we took extreme bear precautions, including putting our trail clothes up in the bear bags. The other crew used the Hugh Card method of peeing around their tents. We got to bed early, for a 4:30 wake-up call. We heard a commotion in the other camp about 2:30--apparently a cow came over to lick the urine (a gross habit we discovered at Apache Springs), and they all woke up, thinking a bear was outside their tents. It was hilarious.  

We were up at 4:30, ready to go about 5:30. Paul L. was having health problems, but he
was coming with us as far as Phillips Junction (PJ), so we hiked both crews together
back to Fish Camp, then to PJ up Rayado Creek, which staff said was an easier hike.
Just past Agua Fria Camp, about a mile out of Fish Camp, we saw a bear ahead of us. It
went up the hill and skirted around us—we saw one tag only. Fish Camp staff said that it was the suspect bear—1 strike, not 2, due only to a sloppy crew leaving their food out—and that Apache Springs staff over-reacted.

We let the boys go together as a crew up to PJ, with the adults and John L. following
more slowly. At PJ, the boys had already gotten the food. With it were several pound
cakes, with vanilla icing and cherry topping, compliments of our commissary friend from Ponil Campground, for Cameron’s 16th birthday. After the treat and saying good-bye to Paul L., we continued up Rayado Creek to the cutoff for Crooked Creek. Switchbacks and quite a ways up, and it started raining pretty hard. What a climb—4 days of food, full water bottles, walking in the rain. We arrived at Crooked Creek and ate lunch on the staff porch. The theme is homesteading and the staff is not impressive, so after a heavy shower with small hail, we started up the trail. The rain eventually let up, but the trail was pretty steep. We finally stopped up at a jeep trail, and A.J. said that this was where the trail got steep! A long, hard climb, cloudy and humid, breathing very hard as we got over 10,000 feet. I just kept plodding along. It seemed like forever to get to the top and on to the campsite. We all arrived—I was dog tired, shirt soaked from sweat, as well as my hat. I had some ibuprofen, laid out things to dry, got the tent set up….

Had some supper, things have dried out some, played some cards before dinner. We’re
sitting around talking now; it’s 7 pm and everyone’s about ready for bed, after climbing
from below 9000 feet at PJ to 10,500 feet here at Wild Horse.

Day 8, Thursday, July 21

Wild Horse Camp to Mt. Phillips Camp

A challenging day, perhaps the most physically challenging day in my life. After bed time at 7:30 last night, we awoke at 5:30, hit the trail by 6:15. Generally flat, pleasant trail to Clear Creek. We arrived about 7:40, stopped for breakfast at the edge of camp. We got in about 8 and signed up for black powder rifle at 9. The staff consisted of at least 3 Mississippi boys perfect for the mountain man theme of the camp. While waiting, we did tomahawk throws. We each got to shoot the black powder rifles twice, loading it ourselves the second time. Afterward we toured the cabin, which staff lived in and was set up as a beaver trapping cabin. Overall good program, well suited staff with a great attitude.

At 10:55, we left on the big hike—up Mt. Phillips. We left Clear Creek at 10,240 feet,
headed for the summit of Mt. Phillips at 11,736 feet. Long, hard, much of it straight uphill, but we’ve had the sun all day. [Later I found out that Rich was on same itinerary six days ahead, so they made this climb the day of the hail storm that reached us late at Rayado River. That would have been really rough!] We stopped for lunch at 11:40, took a pack’s off break from 1:00 to 1:30. I probably drank close to a gallon and a half today. It was excruciatingly difficult, often I was taking one small step after another. It seemed to go on forever, and I was stiff every time we stopped.  

But finally we made it to the top at 2:20! What a spectacular view! Can see Baldy, Touch-Me-Not, Wheeler Peak (still with snow), Angel Fire, and many other views from the north to the southwest. Not much to see to the south or east due to trees, but staff passing through said there are views further down. There was such a feeling of exhilaration reaching the top! Austin and I walked together much of the way. I almost teared up congratulating him at the top with a, “We Made It!” Brother Bob’s cell phone worked, so I called Shirley, spoke to her briefly, then called the office. Julie was not in, so I called the front desk, talked to Vicki M. very briefly.

We are relaxing, eating lunches for supper, playing cards. If the clouds stay away, there
should be a great sunset. Even with the sun shining, there is a cool wind. What an
exhilarating day—I made it!

Day 9, Friday, July 22

Mt. Phillips Camp to Cypher’s Mine Camp

After watching clouds block what would be sunset, we went to bed about 8 p.m. or so.
My Thermarest has got a small leak, so I ended up with sore hips until I put my other
Thermarest (chair) down too. We got up around 6:30, hit the trail by 7:10, had some
great views to the south and east as we got a little lower. Austin was having ankle
problems and I was walking carefully on the rocky areas, but was able to speed up on
the dirt trails. We got down to Thunder Ridge when the trouble started. First, several of
the boys wanted to take the road, but Steve and Danny insisted on the trail, which was
longer but not as steep and in more shade. Most of the boys took off at a fast pace—
Austin moved slowest. I was ahead of him and Tom, keeping an eye out for an aspen
walking stick for Austin. I then found a dead aspen tree, about 20’ tall and straight at the top. A fallen pine was lodged against it on the uphill side, so I got below it to see if it
would pull over. It was loose, so I gave it a jerk—a very stupid move! It broke loose and I fell over backwards, pack first, down the hill. It shook me up, got a couple of scratches
on my arms, but fortunately I was o.k. It could have ended my trek, but I was lucky [Kids, don’t ever try this!]. It also fortunately broke off the upper 9’ of the aspen tree, which I then carried down to Cypher’s Mine. A short time later I stopped for pictures, was passed by Austin and Tom. When I caught up to them, Austin had fallen, but was not injured. Cody & Nathan were there, and the three boys and four advisors strolled down to the camp, finally catching up with the five jackrabbits where they waited for us outside the camp. The downhill hike ended up being very hard, we had our only true episode of contention on the trek—all signs of an emotional letdown after Phillips. Things seemed to have settled down some; the air has been cleared and I think that we are all looking forward to the rest of the trek. Another good happening—Paul L. has rejoined the other crew….
 

Cypher’s Mine is the first camp which I have been to before, but I don’t remember much about it except for the Adirondack shacks, since there is no room in the canyon for tents. When we got to our campsite, we immediately started cooking a supper (spaghetti) since we had two lunches yesterday. After lunch, we went to the blacksmith forge, where Jason got to stoke the fire the entire time and A.J. helped the staffer make a throwing knife. Everyone had a lot of fun, the staffer smeared several people with coal-smoke soot, and we got a small throwing knife. Next we went on a tour of the original Cypher’s Mine—a dark hole in the mountain. Nice tour, some tricks with the lights off in the back of the mine—such as holding on to the person in front of you to walk all the way out in the dark. We are now cooking fettuccine alfredo primavera for a light supper, and playing cards. Tonight after advisors coffee is Tough Man Competition, then the Cypher’s Mine Stomp.

Day 10, Saturday, July 23

Cypher’s Mine Camp to Cimarroncito Camp

I feel like I’ve hit the wall! My legs hurt, I feel exhausted. There were eight crews in
camp, so the advisors coffee and then the Stomp were crowded. Everyone crowded into Charlie Cypher’s original cabin, and staff sang songs and did skits. Bed time was close to 10 p.m., with the adults in one shack and boys in the other.

Alarm went off at 5 a.m., and we were on the trail by 5:45. I have hiked this trail before,
but I don’t remember its beauty—aspen forest, small waterfalls, rock outcroppings. But I was sore through most of the walk. We arrived at Hunting Lodge at 8:30—last time I was here it was boarded up; now the lodge has been restored as Waite Phillips built it
(almost), and it is now a staffed camp. After the tour, we headed up the Cimarroncito
“Superhighway,” a trail across a sunny meadow next to the power lines to Hunting Lodge. We arrived at Cito at about 9:45, then got to our camp by 10:15. After setting up camp, we snoozed, talked and played cards all afternoon….

Before we went climbing, A.J. checked at the staff cabin and found a box of goodies sent to us by Sammy Sloan in Commissary, then forwarded from Fish Camp. Granola bars, cookies, and pudding cups—wonderful! We had supper ready when he got back— mashed potatoes with chicken and gravy. The mashed potatoes turned out well, so we had a big meal. Afterwards, on the way over to climbing, one of Austin’s friends from Paschal, Paul U., recognized me. He and his dad are with another crew passing through Cito. He and Austin were very glad to see each other.

We went to the climbing gym rather than outdoor rock climbing. The gym is a one-story
building with a number of eight- to ten-foot walls and much of the ceiling covered with
climbing holds. The boys went along and around the walls, a few times across the ceiling, from 5:30 to 6:00. I even did it once to pose for a picture.  

At 7 p.m., I stopped by advisors coffee, but soon went over to the climbing triangle,
where Austin was one of about 40 Scouts trying to climb horizontally around the walls for a prize of donuts. On his first attempt, he fell about an eighth of the way down the first wall. On his second attempt, he finished the first wall, went around the corner and finished the second wall, then rounded the corner and fell about a third of the way down the last wall. A combination of fatigue and hard climbing holds designed to make it very difficult. Both of us tired, we headed back to camp.

Day 11, Sunday, July 24

Cimarroncito Camp to Ponderosa Park Camp

I am wearing out. I found a hot spot on the ball of my left foot, and a blister on my
second right toe. My left calf has been hurting, and I need to protect both ankles.
Tomorrow’s hike across Tooth Ridge will be very challenging, Although I am not ready for this trek to be over, I have done about all the hiking I can endure. For that reason alone, I look forward to the hike in tomorrow, although I do not look forward to the heat.

We got up at 5:30 this morning for a hike through Hidden Valley, taking the long way to
Clark’s Fork. Hidden Valley was beautiful, then the trail took us to Window Rock, which
looks out on the back side of Tooth Ridge and onto the Villa and on toward Cimarron and beyond. It was absolutely beautiful! We ate breakfast there and Eric dropped his beef jerky near the edge—too close to retrieve it. A squirrel went after it a few minutes later, knocking it off and then crawling down after it. The whole thing—including Eric’s
response—was hilarious!

Further on, the trail took us up to the cliffs above Cathedral Rock—another absolutely
beautiful view. We saw the other crew below taking the direct route to Clark’s Fork, and
stopped for a worship service which Austin led. After all the climbing uphill, we then went down switchbacks first on the back side then around to the front of Cathedral Rock and down to Cimarroncito Reservoir. It took another 30 minutes to get to Clark’s Fork, which I remember as dusty from 1973, and it still is. Austin and I branded our hats and I branded my Wood Badge mug—all it needs now is a Worth Ranch brand.

After 11, we started up the Schaefer’s Pass trail, a hard uphill about an hour long until we got to Ponderosa Park, our campsite. After lunch it looked like rain, so we set up the
dining fly and our tents. I then climbed into the tent to rest and catch up in this journal. In a few minutes we will go back down to Clark’s Fork for a chuck wagon dinner of beef
stew and peach cobbler before coming back late before our difficult hike tomorrow to the Tooth and then to Base Camp.

Day 12, Monday, July 25

Ponderosa Park Camp to Base Camp

We made it! We left for the chuck wagon supper about 4:30—only 30 minutes down the trail, supper at 5:30 with Gatorade, beef stew and peach cobbler. Back up the trail about 7:30—only 40 minutes to get back up. Quick to bed and up at 4:20 am. We were out of the camp at 5:10 am, using LED headlights to light the trail for the first half hour, both crews together all day. We arrived at Schaefer’s Pass for breakfast about 6:15, then left afterwards to skirt Schaefer’s Peak at about 9300 feet, then down Tooth Ridge. The trail is as rough as ever—climbing over rocks, down rocks, starting to kill my feet. We arrived at the Tooth trail about 9:30. I replaced the bandaid on my second right toe, tightened my boots real tight, and off we went. Probably 20 minutes of crawling up rocks on hands and feet, and then we were there! Austin went up with me, got several pictures of the Tooth and of each other. Oh, the exhiliration! After a few minutes, we started back down, slower for me but still good footing with tightened shoes. We all then changed into our Troop 50 shirts, and started the long walk down the Lower Tooth Ridge trail—a real hazardous trail about twice as long as it should be, I need to write PSA a letter discussing the trail’s hazards. Then there were the jackrabbit crews—blowing by us at a fast stride, then 5 minutes later, we pass them on a packs-off break beside the trail. I asked Austin to walk in with me, and eventually it was him and me with Paul and John L., Danny and Steve bringing up the rear. I fell once on a treacherous loose rock, but was not injured, thank God. Except for a 20-30 minute stop for lunch, we hiked from 10:45 at the Tooth to 1:50 at the Welcome Back gate. Danny, Steve, and Paul and John got in at 2:00. We took some pictures, got our gear checked in, got tents, then I got my shower— but not before Austin and I made the Ten-Day Club—no showers or clothes changes (except socks and when my first pair of pants ripped) over the entire trail. After showering, I found Austin asleep dirty on his cot, so now he is cleaning up. He probably aches all over just like me—shoulders, hips, knees, calves, ankles and feet. Another 3- Ibuprofen day for me (three in a row)….

While Austin cleaned up, I called home and talked to Cody and Shirley. Then Austin and I went to the Tooth of Time Traders to finish our shopping. A fairly decent supper, a little time to pack stuff and to relax, then off to the closing campfire, now including a photo album via projector of the early days of Philturn and Philmont. A great campfire,
preceded by our crew awards ceremony and our last Thorns and Roses. My rose was
my best Philmont memories ever—2005—60 miles of hiking, over 400 photographs,
indescribable bonding with Austin, and a tremendous adventure in my memories. Now to get in shape for 2007 and for future treks with Cody.